{"id":45898,"date":"2018-05-16T10:26:00","date_gmt":"2018-05-16T10:26:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.ekoenergy.org\/the-fashion-industrys-duty-to-lead-the-change-towards-sustainability\/"},"modified":"2020-07-15T12:57:04","modified_gmt":"2020-07-15T12:57:04","slug":"the-fashion-industrys-duty-to-lead-the-change-towards-sustainability","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.ekoenergy.org\/fr\/the-fashion-industrys-duty-to-lead-the-change-towards-sustainability\/","title":{"rendered":"L\u2019Industrie de la mode : une obligation de changer pour un monde plus durable"},"content":{"rendered":"\n
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Nous savons aujourd\u2019hui que la mode fait partie des industries les plus polluantes au monde \u2013 en concurrence avec les transports, la production de p\u00e9trole et de gaz et l\u2019agriculture. Pendant plusieurs d\u00e9cennies le secteur du textile a su cacher cette information et se montrer sous son meilleur jour aux yeux de ses consommateurs.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Seulement, depuis quelques ann\u00e9es de plus en plus de scandales ont \u00e9clat\u00e9 autour des conditions de travail abusives et des pr\u00e9judices environnementaux engendr\u00e9s lors du processus de production de v\u00eatements<\/strong>. Les consommateurs ont alors commenc\u00e9 \u00e0 se questionner sur la provenance des v\u00eatements qu\u2019ils achetaient et comment ils \u00e9taient produits.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u00ab Quand vous connaissez l\u2019industrie, vous comprenez que faire les choses correctement a un prix \u00bb, explique Carol Bl\u00e1zquez, responsable de l\u2019innovation et du d\u00e9veloppement durable chez Ecoalf<\/strong>. \u00ab Lorsque vous achetez un t-shirt \u00e0 1,99 \u20ac, vous savez que les choses n\u2019ont pas \u00e9t\u00e9 bien faites \u00bb.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Carol travaille pour l\u2019une des entreprises de mode visant \u00e0 changer le mod\u00e8le de production pour le rendre durable. Ecoalf, fond\u00e9 en Espagne en 2009, utilise l\u2019innovation comme un outil pour r\u00e9duire l\u2019impact n\u00e9gatif de l\u2019industrie de la mode et son utilisation aveugle des ressources naturelles.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u00ab Avec le pr\u00e9sident de l\u2019entreprise, nous avons pens\u00e9 au recyclage comme moyen de minimiser la consommation de ressources \u00bb, explique-t-elle. \u00ab Les d\u00e9chets ont cess\u00e9 d\u2019\u00eatre des d\u00e9chets et sont devenus une mati\u00e8re premi\u00e8re avec laquelle nous pouvions cr\u00e9er des v\u00eatements en utilisant le m\u00eame design que les autres \u00bb<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

L\u2019id\u00e9e fut un succ\u00e8s et maintenant Ecoalf utilise des mat\u00e9riaux recycl\u00e9s \u2013 des bouteilles en plastique, des filets de p\u00eache, des marcs de caf\u00e9 et des pneus \u2013 dans la plupart de leurs produits. Cette entreprise offre une alternative \u00e0 la production traditionnelle -qui ne cautionne plus les destructions environnementales- tout en gagnant en notori\u00e9t\u00e9 \u00e0 travers le continent.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Une cha\u00eene de production opaque<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Lorsque nous achetons un v\u00eatement dans un magasin grand public, nous avons souvent tr\u00e8s peu d\u2019informations sur son origine. M\u00eame si nous demandons au directeur du magasin, il est impossible de retracer enti\u00e8rement le parcours d\u2019un article depuis sa cr\u00e9ation jusqu\u2019\u00e0 sa vente.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u00ab L\u2019industrie de la mode a une cha\u00eene d\u2019approvisionnement avec de nombreuses \u00e9tapes \u00bb dit Carol, \u00ab et par cons\u00e9quent un impact environnemental tr\u00e8s \u00e9lev\u00e9, surtout en d\u00e9but de cha\u00eene \u00bb. C\u2019est ici que se situe le probl\u00e8me, le processus de production a tellement d\u2019\u00e9tapes qu\u2019il devient impossible pour le consommateur d\u2019en conna\u00eetre le fonctionnement et de fait il s\u2019en d\u00e9sint\u00e9resse.<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Le d\u00e9but de la cha\u00eene textile comprend la culture de la mati\u00e8re dans le cas des mati\u00e8res organiques et la cr\u00e9ation de mat\u00e9riaux synth\u00e9tiques, deux processus tr\u00e8s exigeants en ressources. Comme le revendique le site web d\u2019Ecoalf, le processus de production de fil recycl\u00e9 est beaucoup plus court que celui du fil traditionnel, consommant 25% moins d\u2019eau et 27% d\u2019\u00e9nergie en moins.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

M\u00eame s\u2019il est plus simple pour les consommateurs de ne pas poser de questions sur l\u2019empreinte environnementale de leurs v\u00eatements, il est cependant facile de s\u2019informer sur la question<\/a>. \u00ab Les grands acteurs de l\u2019industrie de la mode sont conscients et ils commencent \u00e0 r\u00e9agir<\/strong>, et quand ils r\u00e9agissent, le march\u00e9 r\u00e9agit. Peu \u00e0 peu on observe des changements chez les entreprises de mode \u00e9ph\u00e9m\u00e8re pour \u00eatre plus durables \u2013 elles n\u2019ont tout simplement pas d\u2019autre choix.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Les certifications comme garanties pour les clients<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Ecoalf met l\u2019accent sur le fait qu\u2019ils surveillent attentivement la durabilit\u00e9 de l\u2019ensemble de leur cha\u00eene de production. En plus de contr\u00f4ler l\u2019origine de leurs tissus, ils pr\u00eatent attention \u00e0 d\u2019autres \u00e9tapes telles que les processus de teinture, en cherchant des alternatives aux substances chimiques avec un haut degr\u00e9 de toxicit\u00e9.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u00ab Nous essayons toujours de travailler avec les meilleurs fournisseurs, nous voulons conna\u00eetre leur travail personnellement. Nous donnons \u00e9galement beaucoup d\u2019importance aux certifications externes garantissant \u00e0 nos consommateurs l\u2019origine r\u00e9elle de leurs v\u00eatements<\/strong>. \u00bb<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Ensuite, lors de l\u2019\u00e9tape dans la chaine d\u2019approvisionnement qui les concerne Ecoalf pr\u00e9cise \u00ab Ce sont dans nos locaux que nous contr\u00f4lons \u00e0 100% nos produits. C\u2019est l\u00e0 qu\u2019intervient l\u2019\u00e9colabel d\u2019EKO\u00e9nergie<\/a> ! \u00bb. La soci\u00e9t\u00e9 utilise des \u00e9nergies renouvelables certifi\u00e9es EKO\u00e9nergie depuis fin 2017 et le revendique. A travers ses engagements Ecoalf participe \u00e0 la transition \u00e9cologique.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u00ab Bien s\u00fbr, j\u2019encourage les particuliers et les entreprises \u00e0 passer \u00e0 une \u00e9nergie 100% renouvelable et durable<\/strong>. Ce choix n\u2019a aucun impact n\u00e9gatif sur le consommateur, c\u2019est facile et le changement qu\u2019il g\u00e9n\u00e8re est \u00e9norme. \u00bb Un v\u00e9ritable changement de paradigme dans l\u2019industrie de la mode, comme dans tout autre secteur du march\u00e9, n\u00e9cessiterait que les consommateurs, les marques et les gouvernements soient align\u00e9s et motiv\u00e9s. Nous avons tous notre part de responsabilit\u00e9 et il est temps d\u2019agir. Comment ? \u00c0 travers nos choix de consommation : lorsque nous achetons un v\u00eatement questionnons-nous sur sa provenance<\/strong> -qui l\u2019a fabriqu\u00e9 ? Son travail est-il r\u00e9compens\u00e9 \u00e0 sa juste valeur- et sur ce qui se cache derri\u00e8re son prix<\/strong>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Ecrit par Teresa L\u00f3pez, traduit par Julia Urbaniak<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Post\u00e9 le 16 Mai 2018<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Nous savons aujourd\u2019hui que la mode fait partie des industries les plus polluantes au monde \u2013 en concurrence avec les transports, la production de p\u00e9trole et de gaz et l\u2019agriculture. Pendant plusieurs d\u00e9cennies le secteur du textile a su cacher cette information et se montrer sous son meilleur jour aux yeux de ses consommateurs. Seulement, […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":45698,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"inline_featured_image":false,"_uag_custom_page_level_css":"","site-sidebar-layout":"default","site-content-layout":"default","ast-site-content-layout":"default","site-content-style":"default","site-sidebar-style":"default","ast-global-header-display":"","ast-banner-title-visibility":"","ast-main-header-display":"","ast-hfb-above-header-display":"","ast-hfb-below-header-display":"","ast-hfb-mobile-header-display":"","site-post-title":"","ast-breadcrumbs-content":"","ast-featured-img":"","footer-sml-layout":"","ast-disable-related-posts":"","theme-transparent-header-meta":"default","adv-header-id-meta":"","stick-header-meta":"default","header-above-stick-meta":"","header-main-stick-meta":"","header-below-stick-meta":"","astra-migrate-meta-layouts":"default","ast-page-background-enabled":"default","ast-page-background-meta":{"desktop":{"background-color":"","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center 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